Angkor TemplesIn ancient Khmer, Angkor means capital city. A Wat is a temple, or temple complex. So, Angkor Wat is the temple in the capital. Many people use the term to denote all the collection of temples in the area, which number over a thousand but there is in fact an Angkor Wat and we were bowled over to finally see this magical site and have returned annually since. It is still believed to be the largest religious building ever constructed and despite the tourists who naturally flock here, it is breathtaking.
From the 9th to the 15th centuries there was a mighty kingdom here and during that time, Angkor was the world's largest city being perhaps ten times the size of Mayan Tikal. In the 11th century, one in a thousand of all humans alive lived at Angkor, unknown to the European world of course. It came under the control of the rival Kingdom of Ayutthaya (in modern Thailand) in 1351 and was finally destroyed after an attempted Khmer rebellion eighty years later. The Khmer people then abandoned it and fled southwards. Although Frenchman Henri Mouhot is credited with the rediscovery of Angkor (no doubt because France was the colonial power in the region) it was well known to the locals and had been seen by other western travellers before him. Nonetheless, until European explorers began their work, the whole area had been overtaken by forest. |
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The main centres, such as Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm and the Bayon, attract huge hoards of visitors. The sunrise at Angkor is especially atmospheric but expect to be in a crowd of a thousand or so even at 4 a.m. Get there very early to stake a pitch on the lakeside for your photos. Likewise, it is wise to get to Ta Prohm before 9 a.m. otherwise the whole world is queueing up for a selfie in front of the 'Tomb Raider Tree.'
Save some time for the Roluos group, Lolei, Bakong and Preah Koh. Here it is quieter as it is farther from Siem Reap and fewer of the package tours come here. They are also the oldest temples, possibly 9th century and are made from brick. The difference in style is worth seeing. Banteay Srei is 16 miles from Angkor so it's a bit of a challenge by tuk-tuk though many do. Dedicated in the 10th century to the Hindu god Shiva, it is built of multi-coloured sandstone and richly ornamented. We cannot do justice to such an important world heritage site in three paragraphs. We hope the pictures whet your appetite and the travel tips are helpful. It can be overwhelming and we do recommend interspersing the temples with some of the other local attractions. Especially don't miss the Day in the Life Experience or Phare Circus in Siem Reap town. We've been twice and it is one of the funnest things we've ever seen. |
Happily today, following over a century of restoration work supported by a large number of national and supra-national bodies, often interrupted by war and local conflict, it is possible to visit most of the temples. Charmingly, it is also still possible to stumble across smaller temples half hidden in woods on the outskirts of small villages. Local children may eye you with suspicion as you pause to take photographs of their playground.
Admission to the park and all the major sites is of course controlled and apart from under 12s who go free, it is necessary to purchase a permit costing from $20 for a one day pass to $60 for a pass allowing admission on 7 days in a one month period. Having visited Siem Reap on several occasions, we are familiar with the term 'templed out' describing the sense of being overwhelmed by the scale of it all. We would recommend a three day pass valid for one week. There is rarely a long queue for the booths where the passes are sold but be aware that the booths don't accept credit cards. It is possible to get cash over the counter but we recommend taking $US with you - it is the favoured currency throughout Cambodia. Transport from Siem Reap town, where you will probably stay is a matter of personal preference. We prefer to retain the services of a tuk-tuk driver for the day at a negotiated rate of about $10-15. It can be very humid and the breeze is pleasant. It's also a much more immediate experience than sitting in a car. If you prefer, there are organised tours a plenty but expect to be herded like sheep. An air conditioned car can be had for about $30 for Angkor Park up to $100 if you want to travel to the outlying sites. A guide can be hired for about $30. |