Park Hyatt Maldives
Yes the sea really is that colour. None of our pictures are retouched in any way. The water is crystal clear, so that with snorkel and goggles you can see to the very depths, plus the water temperature reaches 31 C! The beach is pure white because the sand derives from the coral of which this tiny island is made. Strolling along the boardwalk between the Park Water Villas and the island we saw literally hundreds of brightly coloured tropical fish including parrot fish, angel fish and whole long lines of squid filtering the water lazily. With goggles the variety of marine life in the reef is simply breathtaking. The sun shines pretty much all the time and being almost on the equator is guaranteed to be hot all year round. There is a rainy season which is said to be from mid May to November, but storms rarely last more than a day or two. Park Hyatt Maldives is situated on the island of Hadahaa. In fact it IS the island of Hadahaa, it is that small. Hadahaa has an almost unique situation in that it is inside rather than on the rim of an atoll (North Huvadhoo). This shelters the island from the greater swells further out and creates a perfect environment for corals and the various marine life dependent upon them. This includes the rare and endangered hawksbill turtle. So, having established that this is paradise and you will want to come here, what is the hotel like?
Park VillaThe accommodation consists of 51 individual detached villas. What distinguishes them is their situation rather than size. Although the Hotel's own website quotes differing sizes from 100-120 square metres, internally, they are the same size but have differing size plots. In any case, 100 square metres plus is plenty and the overall impression is of space. Those who really want that once-in-a-lifetime experience of the overwater villa will be delighted by the Park Water Villa. However, we have tried over-water and land villas and feel there are considerable advantages to the Park Villa. There are a few Park Pool Villas but we don't really see the point of paying extra for what is only a shallow plunge pool when the main pool and that at Vidhun Spa are often empty and never busy. The pool villas also offer less privacy, especially villa 1 which is right next to the landing stage and has nothing to screen it from the beach.
By way of contrast, the Park Villas are almost impossible to see from the beach. If you lie on your private sun lounger you look through a window in the foliage onto the most beautiful beach and sea I have ever seen. Waking up in the morning is a delight here. As well as a generous bathroom with his 'n' hers basins, there is an outdoor bath and shower (there's an indoor shower for the shy guest). You may even get a visit from one of the island's flying foxes. Food & BeverageThere are a few points to make about the catering at Park Hyatt Maldives. Firstly, Hadahaa is a long way from anywhere so there are a lot of food miles embedded in the cost of many ingredients. Secondly, The Maldives is a fairly strict Muslim country. Alcohol is not available outside the resorts, and is pretty expensive in them. Breakfast is included in the room rate for all guests, unless using points. However, if you order it room service, it will be charged in full. We complained about this but the management are not willing to change the policy. Breakfast is available all day and is substantial. Everyone receives the tiered platter with fruit, Mashuni Roshi (flat bread, tuna mixed with pepper and coconut) and pastries. You can then choose three items from the menu which is quite extensive for breakfast. I was surprised to find pork sausage available in a Muslim country. You can order extra items at additional cost but really, I don't know who could eat that much. My favourite was the Maldivian tuna curry, cooked with coconut cream, moderately spicy. We soon adopted a pattern of snorkelling round the reef in the morning and stopping for breakfast at about 11:30 am.
That was enough food till dinner time which we usually took at about 8 p.m. after sundowners. We chose to eat at Island Grill because of the Maldivian influenced menu. What we had was good and portions were adequate but it is expensive. Hummus with flat bread was provided compliments of the house the one night service was slow. Main course for two and a bottle of house quality wine was over $100. |
The ResortIf I say this hotel is unobtrusive, that is not meant as a put-down, or faint praise. It is in keeping with the owners' philosophy of having as light a footprint in a fragile environment as possible. As we approached the island by motorboat, the only signs of habitation were the two jetties, until we were almost at the landing stage. There is nothing above about 20 feet apart from the palm trees. What is there though is simple and elegant in design. It was not originally a Hyatt but seems like a good fit. All the central buildings have a clean outline, nothing is overdesigned. The thatching on the roofs of the Spa Cottages, for example, is unique in my experience and I would guess built to withstand the occasional tropical downpour and to be easy to repair. The dining room, poolside bar and Island Grill restaurant are all open sided, though there are awnings for shade and rain covers which can be winched into place in an instant. This is a tropical climate after all. There was evidence all around of active and recent refurbishment. The equatorial sun and tropical storms take their toll on wooden surfaces though and there are a few boards around which might hurt the unwary foot. I spent a week here entirely barefoot though without a problem. Overall, the standard of fit and finish was good. The atmosphere is absolutely serene. If you want to get away from the hurly burly of modern life, while still having every need and whim catered for you could not do better. If you want to be alone, you need hardly ever see another person. If you want company, head to the poolside bar. There is music but it is soft and not intrusive. This is not Barbados!
Park Water VillaThose 100 square metres are enhanced in the Park Water Villas by the fact that everywhere you look you see the Indian Ocean (even in the bath if you chose to raise the electric, remotely controlled blinds as we did). All the villas are perfectly placed at a slight angle to the next so that each has an amazing view of the Ocean and skyscape. Villa 51 is furthest from the island at the end of a boardwalk. Our home for 5 nights was Villa 49. Photographs don't really do justice to the atmosphere of light, space and cool created by the combination of uncluttered design, natural materials and the clever use of natural light at all times of day. The air conditioning is effective making it easy to sleep at night in the huge king beds which are a staple of Hyatts worldwide.
Villas are well equipped with Nespresso coffee maker, flatscreen TV, Mini-bar, safe, life vests, oodles of towels, luxury toiletries and lots besides. The WI-FI could be faster but hey, you're in the middle of the Indian Ocean! The veranda is completely private with a lockable gate to the ladder to the reef. It is a fabulous place to have room service breakfast, laze around watching a fantastic variety of tropical fish or simply gaze in awe at the night sky which has to be seen to be believed. You can borrow a telescope at reception. |
Bar snacks and pizza are available at the bar all day and The Dining Room has a more international menu. We didn't try it but again would comment that it is on the expensive side because of those food miles. Once a week there is a beach BBQ event. Whilst we didn't partake, we had the same menu provided as a private event for our group of 15. It was excellent. The lamb chops and jumbo prawns were a highlight but everything including desserts was high quality. Jean-Pierre Joncas had certainly improved the F&B at PHM in the few months he had been Director of F&B.
Sundowners by the way are a privilege for Hyatt Gold Passport Diamond members who would usually receive complimentary breakfast as a status benefit. As this is available to all at PHM, this little sweetener is very welcome. Any drink on the menu (including champagne or cocktails) is available and is accompanied by complimentary canapes which change daily. Only one drink though, refills are charged. A few beach chairs are set up near the bar at sunset for sundowners; there was never a problem finding a vacant space.
Sundowners by the way are a privilege for Hyatt Gold Passport Diamond members who would usually receive complimentary breakfast as a status benefit. As this is available to all at PHM, this little sweetener is very welcome. Any drink on the menu (including champagne or cocktails) is available and is accompanied by complimentary canapes which change daily. Only one drink though, refills are charged. A few beach chairs are set up near the bar at sunset for sundowners; there was never a problem finding a vacant space.
ActivitiesThe main focus here is the marine environment. There is a strong aura of fragility about the reef. Climate change threatens the very existence of The Maldives. If the worst global warming forecasts are realised, then ocean rising will obliterate these jewels in nature's crown and sea warming will destroy the corals. There is conservation activity all over the Indian Ocean and PHM has its own resident marine biologist. We had a guided snorkelling session with Arabella Willing on our first full day (now working in Abu Dhabi). The new marine biologist however, is marvellously knowledgeable as you would expect and the educational session before we entered the water enriched our experience enormously. The Blue Journeys dive and activity centre can cater for every level of scuba training from 8 year old "bubble makers" to rescue diver and Nitrox. We had done the PADI Discover Scuba course once before but decided to do it again and had one additional dive to cement what we had learned. There are excellent teachers who were happy to go at our pace. Compared to some other destinations (eg Thailand) this is an expensive place to do your scuba training but there is a wide range of opportunities for boat diving for more experienced divers. Check out the hotel's activity web pages for a full range of excursions. These can be tailor-made but include Sunrise and Sunset cruises when there is a good chance of spotting dolphins. Our sunset dolphin cruise, negotiated as a benefit for the 2013 event, was a success as we were greeted by a large pod of spinner dolphins. We also met bottle nose dolphins just swimming off the jetty one afternoon, a very special memory. There is a small air-conditioned gym if you feel the need.
Arrival & departureIbrahim Nasir International Airport at Male receives flights from a wide variety of destinations. First time, we chose to come and go via Singapore because Changi is simply the best airport in the world, and Singapore Business Class is an excellent product. On our second visit, we came from Abu Dhabi via Colombo with Sri Lankan, not so comfortable but good value. MLE is what you'd expect, a small regional airport. It functions efficiently though. We had no delays, no lost baggage, it's easy to find your way around. Hyatt Hotels have an office in Male and all their guests are met on arrival at the airport to smooth their onward travel, very reassuring. There is a small VIP lounge and all Hyatt guests are allowed in. There is a limited range of hot and cold drinks and snacks. No alcohol. The Dash 8 300 seats about 50 and is fairly cramped but you're not going far. The journey to Kaadedhdhoo took about 50 minutes. To the new airstrip at Kooddoo it is now about 90 minutes. Organising baggage and guests onto the boat takes about another 30 minutes. The boat and Hyatt staff are in attendance when you disembark. Everything goes very smoothly. When you get out on the water, you begin to relax and enjoy the incredible view. Our crossing to Hadahaa was smooth.
See the footnote below for comment on transfer times. |
Vidhun SpaAll spas claim to have a tranquil atmosphere and offer to heal your soul and body. We have been to many across Asia and Europe. All I can say is that Vidhun Spa lives up to all its promises. We called in at the spa on the day we arrived to check the facilities and the treatment menu. We have never been greeted more graciously anywhere. We were immediately offered cold towels and provided with a cool drink based on coconut milk. This was repeated each time we called in, no matter how briefly. We selected the Koimala ritual for two. We always prefer couples treatments. The treatments were individually tailored to suit our separate needs. Maldivian medicine is a little akin to Ayurvedic tradition with an emphasis on balance between "humours". The Koimala begins with an exfoliating whole body scrub, followed by a wrap and full body massage. Finally, you are soothed into a state of complete blissful relaxation by a facial. Having caught a bad dose of radiation on the legs whilst snorkelling, we were a little anxious about the scrub and wrap and renegotiated our package so that we had the cooling version of the first two stages of the ritual. We needn't have worried. The treatment was like a miracle cure for sun-burn! From that moment on all discomfort was gone. $640 for 2 may seem expensive compared to other Asian region spas, but it seemed good value to us. We have never felt so renewed. Neither of us has had the courage to remove the balancing bracelets applied at the end of the ritual for fear of breaking the spell (they remain on our wrists even now after a year).
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Arriving at the jetty on Hadahaa, we were greeted by a welcoming committee of management and personal hosts. We were so overcome by the beauty of our surroundings that we hardly took in that we were meeting the General Manager Pierre Lang on our first visit (now Julian Moore does the honours). We were then driven by golf cart on a tour of the island during which all the facilities were pointed out, before finally arriving at our villa. Our personal host demonstrated all amenities in our room, spoke about some of the activities available and told us how we could contact him. He was available by phone continuously. He established our preferences amenity wise (fresh fruit daily) and duly obliged, quietly. Our departure after our first visit was a little more eventful. A squall blew up an hour before we were due to leave. This meant it was raining torrentially. There was a slight delay in the golf cart arriving to take us to the jetty but when we got there, the staff were once again out in force with umbrellas, and wishing us a safe onward journey and of course, hoping we would return.
20 minutes out into the swell, the boat lost its rudder! We were now pitching about like a cork in a storm. After another 20 minutes the crew gave up trying to make repairs and radioed for a relief boat. Making the transfer from boat to boat was a little unnerving but we still made Kaadedhdhoo in plenty of time. The 2-way transfer can only be booked through the hotel and is charged at about $470 pp. Be warned, if you are a control freak (like me) you may find the "last minute" approach to these arrangements a little stressful. Chill out. It does work.
Overall Impression
One little quirk of PHM is that they choose to run their clock 1 hour ahead of Maldivian time. That can make it a little confusing when planning your departure. I have no idea why they do this but if you are travelling east you will be slightly more jet-lagged than you thought.
The Park Hyatt Maldives is a stunningly beautiful property offering some of the best snorkelling and diving in the World. As a category 6 property in Hyatt Gold Passport and 25000 points/night, the hotel offers great value. However, be aware that the extras soon mount up. On our most recent stay, service was not as good as previously with numerous small problems that shouldn't be evident in a hotel of this price-point. However, the natural scenery and wildlife compensates for this. With an increased attention to detail, the hotel could be perfect and, as our most recent stay was only shortly after the current GM had taken over, perhaps things have improved back to the standard of our first stay by now - we advise reading recent reviews of return guests before booking. Overall, we rate this extremely highly as a getaway and plan to return as often as we can.
FOOTNOTE:
On our recent (August 2013) visit, we found that transfer to and from the island is taking much longer than last year despite the opening of the new airstrip at Kooddoo. The hotel website still claims that you will wait no longer than 3 hours at Ibrahim Nasir in either direction. Despite that, we waited over 4 hours in each direction and were made to get up at 6 a.m. local time (5 a.m. Male time) in order to make a 14:20 flight out of MLE. making the total time over 9 hours! We find this unacceptable and told the management so. They explained that it is a problem beyond their control and caused by the way Maldivian Airways plan their schedule. Flight times are frequently not confirmed until just a few hours before take-off. Whilst we have sympathy for their position we feel the guarantee should either be withdrawn and a realistic estimate of transfer times made clear prior to booking, or compensation should be paid to the guest when the target is missed. Our complaint received a satisfactory resolution, but make sure you are clear about the Ts&Cs, prior to travel. The journey is arduous but worth it.
The Park Hyatt Maldives is a stunningly beautiful property offering some of the best snorkelling and diving in the World. As a category 6 property in Hyatt Gold Passport and 25000 points/night, the hotel offers great value. However, be aware that the extras soon mount up. On our most recent stay, service was not as good as previously with numerous small problems that shouldn't be evident in a hotel of this price-point. However, the natural scenery and wildlife compensates for this. With an increased attention to detail, the hotel could be perfect and, as our most recent stay was only shortly after the current GM had taken over, perhaps things have improved back to the standard of our first stay by now - we advise reading recent reviews of return guests before booking. Overall, we rate this extremely highly as a getaway and plan to return as often as we can.
FOOTNOTE:
On our recent (August 2013) visit, we found that transfer to and from the island is taking much longer than last year despite the opening of the new airstrip at Kooddoo. The hotel website still claims that you will wait no longer than 3 hours at Ibrahim Nasir in either direction. Despite that, we waited over 4 hours in each direction and were made to get up at 6 a.m. local time (5 a.m. Male time) in order to make a 14:20 flight out of MLE. making the total time over 9 hours! We find this unacceptable and told the management so. They explained that it is a problem beyond their control and caused by the way Maldivian Airways plan their schedule. Flight times are frequently not confirmed until just a few hours before take-off. Whilst we have sympathy for their position we feel the guarantee should either be withdrawn and a realistic estimate of transfer times made clear prior to booking, or compensation should be paid to the guest when the target is missed. Our complaint received a satisfactory resolution, but make sure you are clear about the Ts&Cs, prior to travel. The journey is arduous but worth it.