Hotel de la Paix, Luang Prabang, LaosIf you are looking for a quiet retreat in beautiful surroundings where the evenings are balmy and you can sit sipping cocktails listening to the cicada singing their little hearts out, if you want fantastic fresh Indochinese food, great spa treatments, stimulating cultural activities, spacious rooms and good value, you found it.
Hotel de la Paix has the same owners as the achingly beautiful Park Hyatt Siem Reap, de la Paix Cha Am (Thailand) and the Park Hyatt Maldives. The hotel is now being managed by Accor and will likely be badged a Sofitel Heritage hotel. dlP Luang Prabang is a converted 100 year old French Fort which was once in use as a prison and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The watch towers are still there in two corners, inside the imposing perimeter wall. The owners are also the proud possessors of two vintage cars, a 1930s Citroën TA (which provided our airport transfers in great style) and a cream Mercedes of similar vintage. I think you'll agree that shows great taste and the hotel itself is similarly stylish with a beautiful and interesting art exhibition included within an award winning architect designed interior. The central courtyard is a very prettily landscaped garden incorporating grand trees, a small rice paddy and a rose-walk among other delights. 3 NagasDescribed by the owners as "our charming sister boutique resort", 3 Nagas is a stand-alone property in the centre of town with an excellent restaurant and rooms that are ideally situated for observing the almsgiving procession of the Buddhist Monks, as well as the general street life.
We went to eat at 3 Nagas on our second night at dlP and loved it so much we went back a second and third time. The comprehensive menu of traditional Laotian cuisine is mouth-watering and would take a long time to exhaust all the options. I fell in love with the Mekong River-Weed (rather like the Nori used in Sushi) speckled with sesame seeds and accompanied by Buffalo Jam. Despite the way that sounds and the fact it contains strips of Buffalo skin, it is a very tasty savoury dip/spread with quite a bite. The fish of course is extremely fresh (everything is called Mekong River Fish) as are the wonderful fragrant herbs. The ambience at night is simply magical with still, warm air and surprisingly little insect life. We took a look at a suite with balcony overlooking the street and think you'll agree it is gorgeous. Next time we visit we will definitely be staying here. SpaYou really have to meet Pookie, the spa supervisor at Spa Indochine. She is such a delightful character who really takes her guests' needs to heart. Even the faintest whiff of dissatisfaction causes her genuine distress and she really cannot do enough for you. No matter how difficult we were with altering our bookings we couldn't wrong-foot her. She is also an absolute genius at making things look pretty. Check the photos.
We both tried the "Neat Feet" treatment (a full pedicure and foot massage). I also tried the Golden Sun massage (like the Signature Massage it includes Thai, Swedish and Balinese techniques and the oil contains gold!), whilst my wife had a facial. Biodroga products (from Germany) are used along with some old local recipes. Aromas were very carefully chosen to suit our moods. All the therapists were very sensitive and empathic. Rooms were extremely spacious and temperatures were well controlled. The only small snag is that the location of the spa close to a road makes it a little noisy at some times of day (mostly 3-5pm so avoid that time). Refurbishments are being planned and management accept the need for more sound-proofing. |
Pool SuiteAnticipating the heat of Laos (although we actually found it slightly too cool at around 27 C), we booked a Pool Suite, directly through the hotel. On arrival, we were swiftly shown directly to our room (no lengthy check-in process here), which had already been turned down - a welcome step given the late arrival of our flight. A pretty mosquito net covered the bed (although it could have been more effective if only 1 entrance rather than 3) and a small bamboo wicker basket contained a sweet rice treat.
On waking in the morning, we were delighted to discover our 7 x 2.5 m pool and sun loungers in our private garden. The bathroom in the suite contained a bath and separate rainshower and, if you opened up the folding doors, you almost had an open-air bathroom. There are signs of wear and tear, but Kirsty, the GM at the time of our stay, acknowledged this and hinted of changes soon to come. Regardless, the rooms are well appointed and offer a relaxing retreat in a serene location. The complimentary mini-bar (containing soft drinks and beer) was also a nice touch. One thing to bear in mind is that mosquitos can be a problem (they were abundant, although we received few bites). The hotel provides DEET in-room but if you are particularly sensitive you may want to bring your own high concentration supply. In-house diningHaving had a slightly stressful flight with Vietnam Air from Siem Reap (they switched from an A320 to an ATR72-600 with no warning and we therefore were "bumped down" to cattle class and arrived over 2 hours late) we decided to eat in our room first night.
The room service menu is very "brief" but one of the advantages of a small proprety is flexibility. They let us order from the restaurant menu. So we had more of those Mekong River-Weed, some excellent Satay and grilled chicken with a sweetened tamarind sauce which also became a favourite. The fresh herb flavours in the (unfried) spring rolls are also a real treat. Breakfast al fresco at Sabai lounge (next to the Library) included a mix of traditional Laotian and Western options. The poached eggs were perfectly cooked every time, the noodle soup again completely fresh. The fresh fruit is as you would expect in this part of Asia. Service was sometimes a little too relaxed and the staff language skills are a work in progress but everyone was charming and friendly. Excursions & activitiesWe came from Siem Reap to Luang Prabang and so, having spent 3 days "templing" were a bit boggle-eyed. Luang Prabang was a very refreshing contrast. The town itself is small and extremely friendly. It is not exactly an undiscovered destination, but is still unspoiled. There are very few Western brand names visible here (no Starbucks, hooray). There is a plethora of small hotels and guest houses, mostly excellent value. Tamarind Restaurant is well-known in the town both for the quality food and the low prices. You can have a half-day cookery class and eat the food for $25 a head.
The Royal Palace is now converted into a National Museum. Entrance is 30,000 Kip (you can pay in $ but get a poor rate of exchange if you do). It is a charming little exhibition of a truly modest national story. Photography is not allowed so you'll have to take my word for it or go yourself. Wat Xieng Thong is also worth a visit. It was the traditional venue for Lao Coronations and is gorgeously decorated. We strongly recommend you spend a half-day at The Living Land learning how to produce rice. There are apparently over 400 varieties of sticky rice grown in the locale. Getting in the mud up to your knees and trying to keep up with a water-buffalo is enormous fun. Kuang Si falls are also very beautiful. Go very early if you want to swim in the lagoons there, it gets busy after 9:30 am. |
Overall Impression
Wow! When we planned this trip, we thought there might be a bit of a come-down from the wonders of Angkor Wat and the elegance of Park Hyatt Siem Reap. Instead we discovered a new favourite retreat. The atmosphere of the town and the ambience of the hotel are nothing short of magical. We have so many happy memories to take away after only 5 days here, we are desperate to return and definitely will. There are rumours that exciting developments are on the way for this property which might include a re-fit. We know that it will be sensitively done and will result in further improvements to the already good service on offer here.
The destination combines truly inspiring cultural exchange opportunities via Living Land and the Ok Pop Tok (East meets West) silk craft village. There are stunning waterfalls, a bear sanctuary, caves, mountain views and the majesty of the mighty Mekong River.
Luang Prabang International Airport has a good safety record and is served by internal flights from the capital Vientiane and increasingly international destinations. Vietnam Air have daily flights from Siem Reap and Hanoi, Bangkok Air fly to Bangkok and Lao Air fly to Chiang Mai. There are a few international hotels including Aman and a Pullman is under construction. Get there soon before the big tour companies muscle in. Stay at Hotel de la Paix for six nights (stay 3 pay 2 nights still on offer) but add at least one night at 3 Nagas.
The destination combines truly inspiring cultural exchange opportunities via Living Land and the Ok Pop Tok (East meets West) silk craft village. There are stunning waterfalls, a bear sanctuary, caves, mountain views and the majesty of the mighty Mekong River.
Luang Prabang International Airport has a good safety record and is served by internal flights from the capital Vientiane and increasingly international destinations. Vietnam Air have daily flights from Siem Reap and Hanoi, Bangkok Air fly to Bangkok and Lao Air fly to Chiang Mai. There are a few international hotels including Aman and a Pullman is under construction. Get there soon before the big tour companies muscle in. Stay at Hotel de la Paix for six nights (stay 3 pay 2 nights still on offer) but add at least one night at 3 Nagas.