Grand Hotel Tschuggen

Whilst we love to ski and generally frolic in snow, we don't like to rough it and it's difficult to find good luxury hotels in ski resorts at affordable prices. Here we think we have the answer. The Grand Hotel Tschuggen is located in the small mountain town of Arosa, Graubünden in the East of Switzerland and is a member of Leading Hotels of the World. We arrived by train, after connecting in Chur for the charming Rättische Bahn train which climbs steadily up to Arosa through an endless string of quaint little alpine villages. Our destination was reached an hour after we left Chur and the hotel's Mercedes S class was waiting for us. This is a courtesy extended to all guests staying at Tschuggen Grand Hotel and it is repeated on departure at no additional cost.

Although externally the hotel main building is a typical example of the clean-lined, modest modern Swiss architecture, inside is another world. This hotel is a veritable museum of fine finishing and interior design. Every surface has some special finish, there is a lot of Italian leather even covering walls in places and we immediately spotted an exquisite pair of Hermes conversation chairs in the lounge. The high standard of fixtures and fittings extends throughout the hotel with each floor having a colour theme. Each guest room is unique and even the ceilings are works of fine finishing of the highest quality. 

Dining

The hotel has a huge choice of dining venues, including an igloo in winter for warming fondue. After a day's walking, we were hungry and keen to sample the Michelin starred restaurant La Vetta. As in the rest of the hotel, service was exemplary, the range on the menu bewildering with strong local accents and the Sommelier's knowledge of the local produce stunning. We had so many amuses bouche we lost count. My duck breast was the most flavoursome I've ever eaten and the beetroot purée served with Mrs d2t's John Dory was out of this world. It is the mark of a truly great chef to be able to present a dish which defines a flavour. At Cheval Blanc in Basel, Peter Knogl serves "mushroom three ways" as an amuse bouche. It is a reference for the flavour of mushroom and in the same way the beetroot served here is a definition of the flavour of this sweet root. I was simply in ecstasy by the time we got to the after-dinner schnapps and the Sommelier produced a 29 year old Framboise.

Breakfast the next morning was one of the most extensive buffets we have ever sampled - poached eggs were produced perfectly, local jams and honeys were unbelievably flavoursome and there was an amazing choice of cheeses and cold cuts, as well as dairy produce from cows, sheep and goats. Coupled with excellent coffee and a good choice of teas and juices, it was impossible not to be satisfied. Service was truly top class.


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Activities

Grand Hotel Tschuggen is the only hotel in Switzerland to have a private luxury mountain railway, which swishes you up to the slopes in style. This is a real perk for either summer walking or winter sports - there was no queue when we used the Express and we enjoyed a cabin to ourselves. The hotel also has a spotless ski locker room and equipment is available to hire at very reasonable rates. 

In Summer, rates include a local tourist card (Arosa Inclusive) giving free public transport including gondolas up the mountain. A range of activities are also included on the card, such as a high ropes adventure course, use of rowing boats or pedaloes on Obersee Lake and access to the local museum. 

​South Facing Deluxe Room

We stayed in a deluxe room with a view and what a view. Looking out at Lenzerhorn from our spacious balcony, with the early morning sun greeting the peaks as the first few skiers break in the freshly raked pistes is an exciting and heart-warming sight. Each room is different - at first we were a little taken aback at having a green ceiling but it grew on us and is certainly more interesting than the usual bland white or magnolia. After spotting that the bed was a twin mattress affair as is commonplace in central Europe, we asked for a mattress topper to be fitted. Without the topper the mattress would be very firm, with it we slept like babies - definitely recommended. Although there were no tea or coffee making facilities in the room, a call to concierge resulted in a kettle, Nespresso machine and plenty of supplies within minutes.

The bathroom was generously proportioned and finished in granite which looked new. The shower was fantastic - easily large enough for two, tons of pressure and capable of being steaming hot. If you prefer to bathe privately, rather than in the Bergoase, the deep soaking tub would also be perfect for a couple.

Spa

The Bergoase Spa built into the mountainside is simply stunning, especially at night when the huge sail-shaped windows that adorn the roof are backlit in shades of blue and gold. It is the only hotel-based sports facility ever to receive an architectural award from the International Olympic committee, being awarded silver in 2009, the year the Bird's Nest in Beijing took Gold.

Soon after arrival, we headed to the extraordinary spa to unwind after a hectic week and a long journey. The main pool is fabulously warm (about 36C) and has indoor and outdoor sections. The outdoor part has lovely views of the alps. Adjacent to the indoor section is a deeper pool suitable for swimming lengths, which is kept somewhat cooler. Then there are two plunge pools in mirror image of each other. One is toasty, the other icy cold. In between is an experience shower which can simulate thunderstorms complete with sound effects and lighting. Downstairs is the au naturel sauna area with a gorgeous alpine sauna at around 90 C, a cooler sanarium and steam room, as well as relaxation rooms stocked with various waters and fresh fruit. Suffice to say we enjoyed ourselves enormously.

Overall Impression

The Grand Hotel Tschuggen is an excellent choice for Winter or Summer, even for those who don't like outdoor pursuits! Located in Arosa, there is plenty to do outside and the hotel is so easy to reach by public transport. The exemplary service starts on arrival at Arosa station with a member of staff waiting to help with bags and Mercedes transfers to the hotel. Rooms are a decent size - we recommend booking at least a South-facing deluxe room to get a balcony and that superb view. The food we sampled was excellent - this is the first time we have seen dairy produce from sheep and goats out on the breakfast buffet, breads from the local bakery were tasty and they even had a decent green tea (unusual in Switzerland)! Michelin-starred La Vetta was very reasonably priced and the food both interesting and delicious. The Bergoase Spa is not just architecturally stunning but wonderfully relaxing inside. What made the hotel for us though was the service, which was faultless. It was a surprise for us to meet the hotel's energetic GM who took the post at the astonishingly young age of 28. Whilst this may have seemed a gamble on the owner's part, it has obviously paid off.