Anantara Sir Bani Yas - Al Yamm, Abu DhabiAfter a drive of about two and a half hours from Abu Dhabi City (it would be the same from the airport) heading along the coast road towards Saudi Arabia, you reach the jetty at Jebel Dhana. There is a private reception there exclusively for visitors to Anantara Desert Island Resorts on Sir Bani Yas. The island takes its name from the Bani Yas tribe who have lived in these parts for hundreds of years. Thanks to the discovery of oil, the Bani Yas are now amongst the few wealthiest families in the world. The Doyen of the family, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al Nahyan used to come to the island for periods of quiet reflection and he built a nature reserve here almost as soon as the UAE was founded in 1971. The island's Majlis' were also the setting for some historically important negotiations over the UAE constitution.
Since the Sheik's sad death, the island has been opened up for tourism. This is tourism though with a very light tread. There is really only one hotel, though it is in three distinctly different parts. We were lucky enough to spend two nights at Al Yamm, the luxury end of the resort, in a one bedroom beachside villa. We managed to taste the fare at the two main restaurants as well as many of the activities on offer. DiningOur first experience, apart from the extremely generous and delicious in-room amenity, which included copious fresh fruits and local sweets and dried fruits, was dinner in Olio. This is an Italian style eatery which could be a lot better if the staff were better managed. Initially, service was a little haphazard but once I showed signs of irritation, the floor manager took over and things went smoothly. We met the F&B director and were not impressed. I suspect change will come before long. The food itself was ok though the menus were not exactly inspired and a number of items tasted as though old oil had been used to cook them. House wines were just about of acceptable quality for a five star resort. Happily for us (as I'm allergic to beef and dairy produce) the seafood selection is good. The tuna steak was very good and well cooked as the picture shows. Breakfast at Al Yamm is also in Olio and the buffet spread contains something for every taste, though quality is not top notch. There is a live kitchen where you can order any style of eggs and fresh waffles etc. If you like that stuff, it looked good.
On our second night, Amwaj was a big improvement. The atmosphere at night is magical when the outdoor fire pit is alight. The seafood platter for two was excellent and we couldn't fault the service. Amwaj is situated across the island at The Desert Island Resort, adjacent to the Anantara Spa. It takes about five minutes by car and transfers are complimentary as you'd expect. If staying at Al Yamm, we would definitely recommend venturing out for dinner. |
One bedroom Beachside VillaAfter a very warm welcome at the jetty and a short wait, we boarded a fast speedboat for the twenty minute crossing, passing a couple of other islands as we sped along. There was plenty of seating on the boat and it was possible to stand on the deck at the stern to enjoy the breeze and the views.
Cars and buses were awaiting us when we docked, all the luggage was handled speedily having been checked in at reception. The short drive to Al Yamm was in an a private SUV and we caught glimpses of the wildlife as we passed the park. Staff at the Al Yamm reception were friendly but it took about twenty minutes to manage check-in. We were escorted to our villa and offered a tour and instructions on the equipment. Coffee and tea facilities are generous. If you like Nespresso you'll be delighted as we were provided with a lot of capsules. As you can see from the pictures, the main living area and bedroom were spacious, clean and decorated in a modern but distinctly Arabian style, befitting the beachside desert location. Everything worked, the shower was fantastic with a very large shower head. There was also a good soaking tub and massive two person washbasin. The verandah had a simply perfect position with a great view and good shade from the sun which can be fierce at this latitude. The villas are well spaced out to provide privacy. LeisureThere's quite a lot to do on Sir Bani Yas. Firstly, you came here for some R&R right? So, there's a big beach lapped by crystal clear waters. We were surprised at how clean the water is, having spent a lot of time down the coast in Dubai. It really is a gorgeous shade of Indian Ocean blue. There is a dive centre on the island and the waters are visited by turtles and dolphins as well as a wide variety of fish (no man-eaters apparently). You can paddle a kayak around the mangrove with a guide, learning about this unique ecosystem. Incidentally, they plant a mangrove sapling for every visitor to the island, it's all a part of the Abu Dhabi light-touch approach to tourism.
We took the cultural tour with a very informative and charming guide who showed us to the Majlis where Sheikh Zayed used to contemplate all the challenges of nation building, the remains (foundations really) of an early Christian Era monastery which is well protected and the even more sparse remains of one of the earliest mosques in Arabia. The main attraction here though has to be the wildlife and the tour through the reserve was certainly a highlight for us. We got some great up-close pictures of gazelle, Al Maha (Oryx) and even ostrich and giraffe. Then we eventually found the cheetahs dozing in the shade after a big kill the night before. This is not some sanitised western zoo. They put the cheetahs in with the deer and let them hunt. |
Overall Impression
I got so carried away talking about the wildlife I forgot to mention the wonderful Anantara Spa. We had one of the best massage and pedicure experiences of our very extensive luxury travels. The Thai and Indonesian staff were not only highly skilled but also charming and very entertaining. We laughed a lot and learned a great deal about life here.
Overall, we had a great experience. The villa was comfortable and well-equipped. The staff were friendly and efficient. Lazing in the sun looking at the clear waters of the gulf was very relaxing. Arrival and departure were well managed. The spa is great and the cultural and wildlife tours were entertaining, informative and exciting.
The only thing that let the place down during our stay was Olio. It's not that bad, it's just that it ought to be trying to be really good. Oh, and a word of advice about that beautiful beach. There's a lot of coral. You'll need to bring your flip-flops or you won't get far. If you want to swim in the sea, it is safe. The beach is very shallow and we didn't detect any riptides or undertows. To enter the sea though you have to walk right to one end of the beach, away from the mangrove. That's the only place where the coral won't shred your toes.
If you're an ex-pat living in the UAE, this is a great place to get away for a couple of days. If you're visiting the UAE and you want a contrast to the cities, again this is the perfect getaway. If you're thinking of coming to see what Abu Dhabi has to offer, stay at Capital Gate or the new Grand Hyatt (opening soon) on the corniche, then go to Qasr al Sarab to see the dunes, then come to Sir Bani Yas. That would make a fantastic week.
Overall, we had a great experience. The villa was comfortable and well-equipped. The staff were friendly and efficient. Lazing in the sun looking at the clear waters of the gulf was very relaxing. Arrival and departure were well managed. The spa is great and the cultural and wildlife tours were entertaining, informative and exciting.
The only thing that let the place down during our stay was Olio. It's not that bad, it's just that it ought to be trying to be really good. Oh, and a word of advice about that beautiful beach. There's a lot of coral. You'll need to bring your flip-flops or you won't get far. If you want to swim in the sea, it is safe. The beach is very shallow and we didn't detect any riptides or undertows. To enter the sea though you have to walk right to one end of the beach, away from the mangrove. That's the only place where the coral won't shred your toes.
If you're an ex-pat living in the UAE, this is a great place to get away for a couple of days. If you're visiting the UAE and you want a contrast to the cities, again this is the perfect getaway. If you're thinking of coming to see what Abu Dhabi has to offer, stay at Capital Gate or the new Grand Hyatt (opening soon) on the corniche, then go to Qasr al Sarab to see the dunes, then come to Sir Bani Yas. That would make a fantastic week.